Phantom Gourmet

GOURMET GREATNESS

Emma’s is worth a trip for its unthinkable toppings possibilities and un-shatter-proof crust. Make a night of it, and catch a flick at the Kendall Square Cinema.

Atmosphere: 8

Emma’s Pizza is a charming, if cramped dining room with pastel chairs tucked around small wooden tables and a take-out window up front. Cornmeal colored walls relax the mood, and a wide kitchen pass-through peers right into the pizza ovens.

Menu: 10

The thin crust pizza menu is a foodie’s dream, with three dozen toppings comprised of the classic, the gourmet, and the absolutely bizarre. Salads, sandwiches, beer, and wine round out the offerings.

Appetizers: 8

For appetizers, some peppery olive tapenade gained fresh cilantro appeal, joined by wafer-like flatbread strips for scooping. Also packed with flavor, the famous fling salad used light, sweet vinaigrette to balance the spinach, toasted almonds, pungent Gorgonzola, red onion, and tart Granny Smith apples.

Entrees: 9

Moving on to pizzas, the sweet potato and artichoke heart combo lent a delicate sugary-tartness to a wonderfully mild mozzarella pie slicked with spicy rosemary sauce. A more lively creation of hot smoked sausage and calamata olives drew on luxurious caramelized onions to calm its fiery intensity. Both pizzas were elevated to extraordinary with a sensationally brittle, crispy-as-a-cracker crust.

Dessert: N/A

While there’s no dessert, an extra slice with dried cranberries and ricotta might do the trick.

Portions: 8

Due to the crust’s incredible paper-thin perfection, Phantom recommends doubling your normal intake.

Service: 7

Phantom noted the full service advantage of the pizza joint, but apron-tied waiters kept up an unfriendly front.

Cleanliness: 8

Cleanliness brightened the space from the chili pepper lights framing the front window to the beaded curtain in the back.

Value: 7

Prices push their limit with $2 slices, small pizzas averaging $12, and large pies at $17.

Location: 7

Emma’s Pizza is just outside Kendall Square on Hampshire Street in Cambridge. Most street parking is by permit only, but there’s a garage behind the square.